THL does…Switzerland - Appenzell
Switzerland is obviously known for its mountains, offering lots of hiking options throughout the country. This 4-day THL does Switzerland itinerary focuses on the Eastern region of Switzerland, in the Appenzell area, close to borders with Germany, Austria and Liechtenstein.
Most of the hikes I recommend are accessed by cable car/ gondola lift, giving you an elevated starting point and making the epic views very accessible. There is a charge for using the cable cars, to ensure the upkeep of the service. That said, they can be quite expensive, most take card/ apple pay. There is the option on some trails to hike to the start point, and not take the cable car, but the majority of people take the lift up, as the most scenic part of the trail begins there, and it can be challenging hiking up. All the cable cars I took felt very safe, and I wouldn’t usually be a fan! I have included more specific information on the cable cars for each hike below. There may also be a charge for parking at the cable car entry. I recommend downloading the EasyPark App to help with this.
As well as stunning mountains this area of Switzerland has the most spectacular mountain lakes (our see in Swiss), some of which feature in my recommended hikes. All in all, hiking in this part of Switzerland is very well organised, and optimised for the hiker.
Combine with THL does Switzerland – Interlaken for a longer trip. It is about a 3hr drive from Appenzell to Interlaken (192km).
Travel
Plane: I flew from Dublin to Zurich, which is about a one-hour drive from Appenzell. Both Aer Lingus and Swiss Air offer direct flights, with options every day of the week during the Summer.
Car Hire: I recommend hiring a car to get to the hiking spots. I used Sixt, but most major hire car companies operate from Zurich Airport. Driving in Switzerland is on the right, the roads are very good, with plenty of room, even on the mountain switch-backs.
Time difference: 1 hour ahead
Currency: Swiss Franc (CHF). At the moment the CHF has parity with the Euro.
Travel Tip: I travelled in July when the temperatures were 30+ degrees. If you are travelling at another time of year the weather will be different and you will require different gear.
Language: The most common language spoken in this area is Swiss- German with some French and Italian. Most menus will not be translated to English however staff are very helpful & I used google translate quiet a lot when eating out. Tip: if you have an iPhone take a photo of the menu, you can then copy and paste the full text to put into google translate, much more efficient than doing one word at a time.
Animals
Most hikes are dog friendly, so you’ll meet lots of dogs on the trails, and if you plan to travel with your dog Switzerland is very accommodating. You will also meet dairy cows, goats, horses and ibex on the trails, and you will have to manoeuvre around them.
Food
Switzerland is known for chocolate, of course, fondue and their dairy produce. The menus in most places consist of meat and cheese, making for heavy meals. Being veggie is okay, however finding Vegan options outside of the bigger towns is difficult. Vegan options were limited in Appenzell, especially when out hiking. but Interlaken had more on offer. I have linked my recommendations below.
Apps and digital things.
While I was in Switzerland I used Outdoor Active which is an interactive ordinance survey map, which pinpoints, where you are on the trail and shows alternative route options around you, it’s like google maps but for mountains! I also used Strava to track my hikes.
I used the yr.no weather app and website, and it was extremely accurate. There are also live web cams at most hiking destinations to check before you head out.
Hiking Gear
Hiking boots are essential
Walking poles
Hydration
Snacks (a lot of hikes have food options on route however these can be expensive).
Sunglasses
Bug spray
SPF
Hand sanitizer
Mini first aid kit (blister patches, tweezer for bugs or splinters, plasters, anti-septic wipes, pain killers)
Powerpack for phone when using apps
Wallet
Peak cap
Swimwear and towel (some hikes)
Warm clothes for post-swim
Other things to note
Paragliding is huge in this region of Switzerland, and it would be a great place to try it out if it’s something you have always wanted to do. I didn’t! Most of the hikes are also great trail running locations, should you feel the need for speed. I have accommodation options below but it’s also worth noting that the cafés at the top of the cable cars are also often hotels, so you can opt to stay at the top of the mountain if that takes your fancy.
Places to eat
My number one recommendation is Restaurant Alpenhof (alpenhofweissbad.ch). Other places worth trying are:
Panorama Hotel Freudenberg
Little Italy Appenzell
S’plätzli
Truube- Michelin
Alpstein
Berggasthaus Bollenwees
Where to stay
There are different options for different budgets. The approximate prices are per night and will change depending on the time of year.
Hotel Hof Weissbad 550CHF
Romantik Hotel Säntis 250 CHF
Hirschen Wildhaus 230 CHF (a bit out of the way)
Alte Metzg- Hostel 130 CHF
Cool spot: Take the Säntis cable car to get a panoramic view over 6 different Countries! Can you guess what the 6 Countries are?
Suggested Hikes in Appenzell
Saxer Lücke
There are lots of trail options at Saxer Lücke but the two I suggest are;
- Option 1: Out and back along the ridge to the Saxer Lücke Viewpoint (6km)
- Option 2: Out and back to Fallensee, via the Saxer Lücke Viewpoint (9km)
Both hike options have the same start point.
Option1: Saxer Lücke Viewpoint
Distance: 6km, out and back
Difficulty: Easy-moderate.
Elevation: 290m approx.
Terrain: Rocky and narrow dirt trail. Steep and close to the ridge edge in some sections.
Marked: Yes, follow the signs for Saxer Lücke.
Start Point: Frümsen, Luftseilbahn Staubern. The cable car brings you up to “Berggasthaus Staubern” where you will begin the hike.
Facilities: There are toilets and a café at the start point.
Cable car: 36CHF per adult return. Check here for up to date information https://www.staubern.ch/bergbahn/
Parking: Free
Option 2: Fallensee, via Saxer Lücke Viewpoint
Hike to the Saxer Lücke Viewpoint and continue down to Fallensee, returning the way you came. Fallensee is beautiful place to take in the views of the lake and have a rest, before you head back up to follow your route back to the start point, via the Saxer Lücke Viewpoint. I recommend trying the rösti in “Berggasthaus Bollenwees” where it is a speciality.
Distance: 9km, out and back
Difficulty: Moderate.
Elevation: 540m approx.
Terrain: Rocky and narrow dirt trail. Steep and close to the ridge edge in some sections. The trail down to Fallensee Lake is steep with a loose rock surface.
Marked: Yes, follow the signs for Saxer Lücke and then follow the signs down to Fallensee.
To note: Fallensee is not a swimming lake
Start point: Same as option 1.
Schäfler and Seaalpsee Swim
There are a number of trail options from this start point but the two I suggest are;
- Option 1: Out and back to the Schäfler Viewpoint
- Option 2: The Schäfler- Mesmer- Seaalpsee Loop.
Both hike options have the same start point.
Option 1: Schäfler Viewpoint
This trail is perfect is you want an easy hike and great views. To get one of the best views of the jagged peaks and ridge line, from the cable car exit, follow the trail to the Schäfler hut, returning to the cable car on the same route.
Distance: 5km, out and back
Difficulty: Easy.
Elevation: 290m approx.
Terrain: Rocky and narrow trail, close to the ridge edge in some sections.
Marked: Yes, follow the signs for Schäfler.
Start Point: Ebanalp cable car, Wasserauen. Get the gondola lift to Ebanalp.
Facilities: There are toilets at the start point.
Cable car cost: 34CHF per adult return. Takes about 4 minutes one-way. Check here for up to date information www.ebenalp.ch/en/information
Parking: 4CHF
If your energy levels are good after your hike, you can go to Seaalpsee from the car park, after you return on the cable car. Follow the signs for Seaapsee. The trail is approx. 5.3kmout and back, with a steep climb to the Lake and downhill all the way back to the car park.
Option 2: The Schäfler- Mesmer- Seaalpsee Loop.
While both hikes have the same start point, you will only need a one-way ticket for the cable car for route (22CHF).
Distance: 12.3km, Looped.
Difficulty: Hard
Elevation: 1,018m approx.
Terrain: Dirt and rocky trail, with very narrow trails close to the edge. Some sections on the decent are steep loose rock tracks which require a lot of attention.
Marked: Yes, Follow the signs for Schäfler, then Mesmer, then Seaalpsee and finally the car park.
Start point: Same as option 1.
- From the start point at the Ebenalp cable car, follow the signs for Schäfler.
- From Schäfler hut the trail gets much more challenging, you will need to be very comfortable with heights and a very narrow ridge trail.
- Continue along the ridge line following the signs for Mesmer.
- Once at Mesmer where there is a lovely café/restaurant -name- Berggasthaus Mesmer? with lots of goats and donkeys around it- this is a great place to stop for an energy boost.
- From this point, follow the signs down to Seaalpsee along a steep, loose rock trail.
- Enjoy some time at Seaalpsee, take a swim and relax before following the road down back to the car park.
Lünersee, Austria
This was one of my favourite hikes, definitely one to add to your list. Lünersee is in Austria however there is a free travel boarder between both countries and no boarder control. There are a number of trail options here, I have opted for:
- Option 1: The lower loop around the lake
- Option 2: Taking multiple trails off the lower loop to higher vantage points.
Option 1: Lower Loop around the Lake
From the cable car exit follow the trail which follows the side of the lake, you can go clockwise or anti clockwise. It can get very windy up here so be prepared.
Distance: 6.8km, looped
Difficulty: Easy.
Elevation: 230m approx.
Terrain: Hard surfaced gravel path, suitable for families.
Marked: Yes. This lower loop trail is distinctive and easy to follow.
Start Point: Cable car from Lünerseebahn to Bergstation Lünerseebahn and the Douglass Hütte restaurant (which I recommend for food after your hike).
Facilities: There are toilets and a café at the start point.
Cable car: 18.90CHF per adult return. Takes about 2 minutes one-way. Check here for up to date information www.lunersee.at/en
Parking: 4CHF
Option 2: Taking multiple trails off the lower loop to higher vantage points.
There are 3 main trails off the lower loop around the lake. I hiked them all and the one I would recommend is Schafgafall. It is a moderate trail that will add 2.5km onto your hike.
Hiking the lower loop anti clockwise, after 5km approx. you will see signs for Lünerkrinne. Follow this distinctive trail up to a 360 viewpoint, returning the way you came.
There are more trail options here Hiking - Lünersee
Limerensee
There are a few trail options at Limerensee to reach Muttseehutte, but I suggest the most direct route. Out and back via the tunnel, Limerensee lake and up the Muttseehutte, and taking in the nearby viewpoints. This is a challenging hike so be prepared.
Distance: 12.8km, out and back
Difficulty: Hard
Elevation: 910m
Terrain: Dark wet tunnel, rocky and very narrow steep trail close to the ridge edge.
Marked: Yes, once you get off the cable car, follow the signs for Muttseehutte (2hr 15 min), going into the tunnel and then following the red and white markers.
Start Point: Valley station Luftseilbahn Tierfehd
Cable car: 15 CHF per adult return. Opening times vary depending on the time of year and day. To note this cable car stops at lunch time 12-13.30 midweek and the last car down is 6pm so plan to do this hike early to make it back in time. Check here for up to date information Aktuell | Muttseehütte
Parking: Free
- Exit to cable car at the start point and pass through a door (sign posted Muttseehutte 2hour 15 min) into the tunnel, ensure you grab a reflective jacket to wear for this section, there is a box of them at the door.
- To note: The tunnel is approx. 2.7 km long. It is very cold even in summer so make sure you have extra layers.
- Once through the tunnel you will be at Limmerensee, where you begin the steep ascent to Muttseehutte and Muttenchopf viewpoint. The trail is marked by white and red markings. Be aware that the trail is very narrow in sections, with a drop to one side of the ridge. The narrowest sections have chains to hold on to.
- There are plenty of viewpoints and flat sections to take a break on the route up.
- Return the way you came. Be aware in the descent there is a lot of loose rock, so be mindful and give yourself enough time.
*By the way the 6 Countries you can see from the are France, Germany, Italy, Austria, Liechtenstein and Switzerland.
